Projects 💣

Kjugekull

GAMLA SKOGEN
– La Bohéme assis ~ 8B+ ?

A classic project and a really obvious line. Basically one really hard crimpy move into the 7C stand start.

– One move too many ~ 8?

Start with underclings under "No move wonder". One crazy lowball power move.

– Sharpline ~ 8?

Goes on the right side of the arete from 'Toxic'. Obvious start hold into invisible razor-crimps, very high top-out.

– Freak Shriek ~ 8?

Sit start to 'Ett litet skämt', just right of 'Freak Tweak'. Two finger crimps into a catch?

– Magisk teater ~ 7A ?

Start like "Endast för förryckta" climb up 1/3 and venture left via a shelf, then solo the crystal slab to the top. Too tall to fall.

HÖRNET
– Glömskan ~ 8A/B ?

High wall/slab behind 'Sickboy' first brushed by Gustav Kamf. Hard start with crimpers and slopers, high top-out.

– Elden inuti aka Den leende geten ~ 7C/8A ?

Erik Grandelius had the vision to brush up this crazy looking wave-like feature. It climbs up into the concave overhang on small sharp crimps and finishes with slightly larger holds near the top. Very exposed!

– Litenheten ~ 7C/8A ?

An overhanging face with sharp crimpers and most likely a dynamic move to the lip – all over a very bad landing!

– Hemligheten ~ 7B/C ?

Overhanging line in the secret room. Climb up with the rail and small crimps, finish with a big throw to the lip. Very bad landing with big risk of disappearing into the abyss.

– Fokus ~ 8B ?

This tall and proud vertical wall was first brushed and tried by Gustav Kamf. The climb consists of sharp crimpers which get thiner and further spaced the higher you get. Possibly some sort of jump move in the end?

– Resonans ~ 8?

The concave dihedral right of 'Ett horn i sidan'. Small gaston-crimps and slippery foot holds leads up to a blank section before the top.

– 2001, en rymdodyssé sit ~ 8A+/B ?

This burly sit start adds a hard very shouldery section, followed by a very crimpy sequence into the 7B+ stand start.

– Tunn Luft ~ 8C/+ ?

The oldest and most classic project in Kjugekull: a huge roof with small nasty crimpers and powerful tension moves. Many have tried it over the years but no one has succeeded, although Erik Grandelius and Bjørn Arnel Iisager got close. Unfortunately a start hold broke making it even harder!

UTSIDAN
– Skål! ~ 8A ?

The classic line on the backside of Caféblocket, starting with the characteristic bowl feature which the project has been named after. Nalle Hukkataival tried it when he visited the area and got up to the very top, but had to walk away with no cigar... Invisible pseudo-crimpers is the name of the game.

– Vague vägg ~ 8A ?

The wall just right of "Grov groove", but without the groove! This line, envisioned by Harald Bohlin, starts on small pockets, then follows a vague sloping edge up to a blank section, where the only feasible solution seems to be jumping to the top!

– Träddödaren sit ~ 8B ?

Sit start on a big obvious jug and throw yourself out left to catch the minuscule two finger crimp, then finish with the 7C lowstart.

– Tjock som en tjäder ~ 8B/C ?

The, at a first glance, blank slightly overhanging wall to the right of "Styv som en fjäder". It starts with a relatively good edge and then gets very hard with big moves on tiny crimpers and pockets.

West

HULTASTENEN
– Den nattliga havsfärden extension ~ 8C

'Tvekampen' (8A) into 'Den nattliga havsfärden' (8C).

– Armod ~ 8C/+

Start right of 'Högmod' and climb straight up with big moves between small crimps, then finish with a massive dyno to top jugs.There's also another variant of this project, envisioned by Erik Bäcklin whom also have done almost all the moves. It starts the same way, but trends leftwards with bad crimps and non-existent feet into "Högmod".

– Seriös Mård ~ 8?

Start like 'Seriös pump', but without the lower rock and follow the undercling rail into 'Mården'.

FÄRLÖV
– Inkognito ~ 8?

The left side of the arete, from 'Terra Incognita'.

East

ÖSTRA IVÖ
– Grisen ~ 7/8 ?

Steep compression climbing on crimps and slopers with a poor landing.

– Tunna linjen sit ~ 8?

Subtle compression climbing into the unintelligible stand start.

– Baboushka ~ 7?

A rounded baboushka egg with very bad foot holds, bad slopers and— wait for it... a bad landing!

PANSHAMN
– Mjuk ~ 8?

A smooth vertical wall with big water-polished side pulls and absolutely no feet.

– The Overhang ~ ?

A very steep and tall overhanging face with one obvious line going up the middle. Good holds to start which get increasingly smaller and then pretty much disappears for the last part. Impossible?

ALLARP
– The Big Arete ~ 8?

A tall exposed arete with big rounded holds, spaced (too?) far apart. Unfortunately a bit dabby with surrounding rocks in the start.

HANÖ
– Social dissonans låg ~ 8?

The obvious low start to 'Social dissonans'. One very powerful move on big holds into the precarious stand start.

North

KARSHOLMS SKOG
– SoHo sit ~ 8A+ ?

Really, THE line of the bloc. Sharp and very powerful compression climbing into the proud top-out.

– Sohallen ~ 8B/+ ?

A slightly overhanging wall with some sort of an undercling crux. Tall and tough.

– War Pigs sit ~ 8B ?

Hard lift-off with bad feet requiring lots of tricks. Rough crimpers.

ARKELSTORP
– The Big Prow ~ 8?

Tall prow with big pinches and an exposed landing.

VÅNGA
– Vånga Komplexet låg ~ 8B ?

Steep overhanging climbing on flat edges requiring lots of finger strength and body tension.

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